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Ships by Class/Type: Destroyers
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1/350 FINE MOLDs IJN AYANAMI
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Monday, October 15, 2018 - 11:32 PM UTC
Russell / Si,

Great to have you along for the ride and thanks for the kind words.

The degaussing cable was a bit tricky, especially along the stern and the bow.

She has been masked and painted so she is sporting her go to war colors. Will have some updated photos this afternoon.


Dave
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Posted: Monday, October 15, 2018 - 10:42 PM UTC
Nice work Dave,

Doo like the brass bits, very neat indeed, Tidy job in the degaussing coil too, they can be tricksy things to fit.

Cheers


Si
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, October 15, 2018 - 10:31 PM UTC
Dave, great to see you moving this one forward
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Saturday, October 13, 2018 - 04:38 AM UTC
Mark - I have not found any photos of the Ayanami from the top view but looking at sister ships there does appear to be brass stripping along the decks.

Chuck / Tim - I agree, all evidence shows that the linoleum route is the correct one so that is what I will do.

The other aspect is that the Ayanami was sunk in 1942, still relatively early in the war and probably before they started looking at removing any linoleum decking.

As an update, the hull and deck have been primed. I am looking to paint the bottom hull and the linoleum decking later this afternoon.

Photos to follow

Dave
Quincannon
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2018 - 04:18 PM UTC
I agree on the lino as well.

I suppose I could refine my question a little and ask if anyone knows when the lino was first applied on the weather decks. Ayanami dates from 1930, so perhaps the model I have shows her original configuration,and the lino decks a later add on.
TimReynaga
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2018 - 12:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I am going to go with the linoleum decking and brass strips since that is what most IJN ships used for decking.

Dave



Dave,

Your decision is, IMHO, the correct one. All Japanese destroyers and cruisers carried linoleum held in place with the brass strips on their weather decks. Although it is true that there was a systemic removal of linoleum decks from IJN ships during the war due to their flammability, this appears to have applied only to interior decks. In the few surviving photos clearly showing IJN DD decks, the linoleum/brass coverings appear in every one. It makes sense - wet bare steel decks are SLIPPERY! The postwar Japanese Maritime Self-Defense Force have since adopted the USN practice of using traction-textured walkways on weather decks.
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2018 - 11:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Chuck,

The Fine Molds kit does have the linoleum decking with the brass strip molded to the deck.

What is interesting is that the Kagero 3D book on the Fubuki Class Destroyers do not indicate brass strip but shows the decking all non slip with sections painted linoleum brown.

I am going to go with the linoleum decking and brass strips since that is what most IJN ships used for decking.

Dave



The strips were used to hold down the linoleum so maybe the deck of a destroyer due to its smaller and narrower size didn't require them. Have you see photos of Ayanami with the strips?
I was reading that the correct width of the strip for 1/350 would have to be between .0034 to .0055mm. That is really a thin strip of brass to handle. I could see myself bending the darn thing during install. Let us know how well the installation went.

Mark
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2018 - 07:23 AM UTC
Chuck,

The Fine Molds kit does have the linoleum decking with the brass strip molded to the deck.

What is interesting is that the Kagero 3D book on the Fubuki Class Destroyers do not indicate brass strip but shows the decking all non slip with sections painted linoleum brown.

I am going to go with the linoleum decking and brass strips since that is what most IJN ships used for decking.


Dave
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2018 - 04:32 AM UTC
David: I am just curious. Does your Ayanami have the lino decks in the usual places for IJN DD's?? After posting to you last night I pulled my Aysnami (Tamiya 1/700) out that I had built many moons ago, and noticed her decks were all steel, with no lino at all. I file away the painting instructions as well on the back of the boxes, and they showed no lino too. So I am curious if these are correct as Ayanami by Tamiya is an old kit.
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 11:41 PM UTC
Thanks Chuck
Quincannon
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 03:27 PM UTC
Splendid work David. Following closely.
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 01:11 PM UTC
Mark,

The inaccuracy of the degaussing cable is the layout. The photos I have been able to find of the IJN Ayanami show that it was equipped with the covered degaussing cable, so that part is accurate. The Alliance Modelworks degaussing cable did not have rounded bends in the cable so I had to adjust.

As far as the porthole covers, guess I will need to add them, my intent is to mount the ship in a dynamic diorama with the ship launching torpedoes during the second naval battle of Guadalcanal where she was sunk by the USS Washington, but not before the Ayanami sunk two US destroyers.

Thanks for the input, really appreciate the comments

Dave
d6mst0
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 11:55 AM UTC
David,

Fine start you have made with her so far. I use the Tamiya's Degaussing cable set as it seems to be the most accurate for the larger ships. I have not built a Japanese destroyer yet so I have not investigated how many cables are in the bundle going around the ship to determine if the Tamiya would work. I didn't see in your photos where the cables started and ended. Interested what the cover plate look like.

As for the porthole covers that would depend on status of the ship at that time. I sure if they were expecting combat they would all be covered were in port they would all be open. Some portholes could stay covered all of the time. I think this area should be based on the modellers opinion and artistic mood.

Mark
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 11:18 AM UTC
Gents,

Sorry for the long delay. I was focused on moving the Shokaku forward, now that I have some color on her I am focusing on the Ayanami. I have a club contest in December and I plan to enter with this build.

Anyway, so far the fit is pretty decent. The stern has a little gap that will need some filling. There are some flash issues but nothing that is so bad that it requires extensive removal and repair.

The one issue with the kit is that the hull is not molded with the Degaussing cable, so I had to procure an aftermarket set. Fine Molds does have a PE set for the cable but I was unable to find it. I went a head and acquired the Alliance Modelworks set. Unfortunately it is not exactly historically accurate but I am happy with it so far.







In the last picture you can se the Shokaku. I dry fitted the flight deck with a few of the aircraft. I'm pretty happy with it right now.

Anyway, you can also see in the last two pictures that I sanded off the port brows and added Eduard IJN portholes. It is mighty tedious but I wanted to take this build the extra mile.

Does anyone know which portholes would have been covered (not remembering the correct term)?

Anyway, the degaussing cable and the new portholes are complete on the starboard side, now to move onto the port side.

I also started on the bridge. So far there is plenty of PE from the Infini Kagero kit that fits the Ayanami.





You can also see that I removed the molded bollards and replaced them with Alliance Modelworks Destroyer Bollards. Another modification was removing the molded vents and replacing them with Hasegawa vents from one of the accessory kits

I will keep working the hull and look to have some color on it before the end of the weekend. We will see.

I will have a more steady update now that I am focusing on the Ayanami.

Thanks for stopping in and as always, comments, suggestions and criticism are always welcome.

thanks

Dave


Quincannon
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Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 05:30 AM UTC
That is probably a pretty good bet Tim, especially if she was dry docked during her refit.

I tend to use Kure in the absence of firm data anyway, because it is an in between color, not too dark, and not too light.
TimReynaga
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Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

So with this change, you have gone from the paint selection frying pan into the fire, and right beside me. Move over

Your's, and my about to be started Amatsukaze, were both built in private yards so what color paint is the question?



As for the painting question, Ayanami underwent maintenance at Kure in April/May 1942 after some significant war service. My bet is that she also would have been repainted then, so she probably still wore Kure Grey when she was lost that November.
Quincannon
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Posted: Saturday, September 08, 2018 - 06:52 AM UTC
Want to correct the record here. Amatsukaze was built by Maizuru Naval Arsenal, and not by Uraga. Whitley's "Destroyers of World War II is incorrect in this instance
Quincannon
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Posted: Wednesday, September 05, 2018 - 07:12 AM UTC
So with this change, you have gone from the paint selection frying pan into the fire, and right beside me. Move over

Your's, and my about to be started Amatsukaze, were both built in private yards so what color paint is the question?
rolltide31
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Posted: Monday, September 03, 2018 - 08:24 AM UTC
Chuck, thanks for the advise, will keep that in mind

Jan, Great to have you along for the ride.

OK everyone, so a change in plans. I reread the history and the Table of Movement for the IJN Destroyer Oboro. It was assigned to Carrier Division 5 in the winter of 1941 but was detached to support the invasion of Guam There it did not assist in escorting Carrier Division 5 to Pearl Harbor.

Since this would make my diorama historically inaccurate I am shifting gears and will build the kit as its original ship, the IJN Ayanami.


I will build mostly out of the box. Will source some metal barrels for the main guns but my target is to use this for my first dynamic diorama. I intend to display her as she is launching her torpedoes against the US Fleet at the Second Naval Battle of Guadalcanal, just before she was sunk by the USS Washington.

Since I am such a detail nerd I am going to go back and fix the history of the ship in the initial post.

Well now that it is mainly out of the box I am going to get more going.


thanks for stopping in

Dave
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, September 02, 2018 - 06:41 AM UTC
Dave,

even though I'm joining in late - very nice start, and I'm looking forward following your build!!

I'm in and watching!

Cheers,
Jan
Quincannon
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Posted: Friday, August 31, 2018 - 12:01 PM UTC
Watch out for what appears to be a scarring on the port side of the lower hull. Did not notice it at all until I applied the primer/lower hull color. It is about a inch and a half long and is at the point on the port side that would be just under the bridge location.

rolltide31
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Posted: Friday, August 31, 2018 - 09:28 AM UTC
Chuck,

Nice, I will have the Hasegawa version in stock today. Looking to order some of the Inifini Upgrade kits here within the next few days.

Dave
Quincannon
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 08:42 AM UTC
Hasagawa, and I really think I should have gone for the Fugimi. I may still at some later date
rolltide31
#377
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 07:08 AM UTC
Chuck,

I understand the challenge. I too have a space issue. Haven't figured it out yet but will need to here shortly.


One of the guys at my model club hangs his on the wall like a pictures. Not a bad idea but I haven't seen what it looks like with a capital ship.

Which Shimkaze kit are you building?


Dave
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 04:21 AM UTC
Thanks David. While I really prefer to build a model full hull,my house is small, and my display space very limited, so doing everything full hull for me is out of the question. I make exceptions though and my current project Shimakaze is one of them.

What I have done though is found a suitable sized case at Hobby Lobby in which a 1/350 water lined destroyer fits very nicely as long as the prototype ship was 420' or less. In other words it would not be big enough for Burke, but just right for a WWII destroyer. This allows me to store a model, once complete, and rotate them in my limited space, much like my wife changes the decorations on the mantle with each changing season.