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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Hosted by Todd Michalak
1/200 HMS Rodney with Pontos Stuff
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 08:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Warren,

Your organizational skills do you credit - and will probably save your sanity as things progress on this awesome build!



I was thinking more as a safety issue. More than once I sat a bottle of glue or something on the edge of those metal trays and launched assembled PE parts all over the work bench and floor.

Mark



I have been known to knock over CA accelerator bottle before.. tall, narrow with a heavy top.. Now I am careful to put it and CA glue out of the way totally.

Cheers
Warren
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 08:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Warren,

Do wonder with aftermarket manufacturers sometimes, etched ammo boxes are great if you wanted to show them empty, or if the kit parts are bland, but in this scale... do the rounds look a bit two dimensional?

What Tim said about your organisation. I spend far too much time hunting round the bench for which little box / tub / pot I have put something in.

Cheers

Si




Hi Simon.

Now all I have to do is hunt through lots of little resealable bags for turned brass bits..

And yes, the rounds do look a little 2D but again, the scale makes that the reality. A dab of paint on the shells will make them pop later.

Cheers
Warren
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 08:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Warren,

Your organizational skills do you credit - and will probably save your sanity as things progress on this awesome build!



Thanks Tim.



RussellE
#306
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Posted: Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 12:22 AM UTC
PM sent Warren
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 09:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Warren,

Your organizational skills do you credit - and will probably save your sanity as things progress on this awesome build!



I was thinking more as a safety issue. More than once I sat a bottle of glue or something on the edge of those metal trays and launched assembled PE parts all over the work bench and floor.

Mark
RedDuster
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 09:05 PM UTC
Hi Warren,

Do wonder with aftermarket manufacturers sometimes, etched ammo boxes are great if you wanted to show them empty, or if the kit parts are bland, but in this scale... do the rounds look a bit two dimensional?

What Tim said about your organisation. I spend far too much time hunting round the bench for which little box / tub / pot I have put something in.

Cheers

Si

TimReynaga
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 01:19 PM UTC
Warren,

Your organizational skills do you credit - and will probably save your sanity as things progress on this awesome build!
warreni
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Posted: Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 10:44 AM UTC
Here are the Hataka paints I need for the camo scheme on the box cover..



From the left..
MS1 RN Blue-Black
507C RN Light Grey
MS2 RN Dark Grey
B5 RN Dark Blue

The only teensy weensy problem is that if I paint the model in this camo scheme I need to camo the deck as well. This would not normally be a worry but the Pontos detail set comes with a lovely wooden deck and it would be a huge waste to paint over that.

Next option would be too use a little artistic license, saving myself lots of time, and not camo the deck.

And the final option would be too paint the ship in the colours it was in when it took on the Bismarck, which IIRC is 507B grey. Only problem then would be that I would have to leave off many of the lovely radar items installed after the Bismarck action.. which again would be a waste of all that lovely Pontos PE.

Luckily I don't have to make a decision as yet.

Next up is a photo of the pom pom assemblies before I made a big decision..



Notice how many of the magazines are not lined up properly on the breech assemblies? I did and it drove me to remove all the magazine assemblies and replace them with the plastic kit ones which I lined up very easily, and with a lick of paint they will look fine.

Finally, the aftermath..



After doing all that yesterday I decided to sort out all the turned brass bits and pieces and seperated them into seperate resealable bags.

Will make it much easier to find pieces as required.

Cheers
Warren
warreni
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 01:09 PM UTC
Thanks heaps Russell.

The Hataka paints I ordered came the other day. I will take a piccy of them tonight.

RussellE
#306
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 12:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Does anyone have pictures of both sides of the Rodney in her camo scheme? I have received the colours I need now I need a poroper diagram as the Trumpeter one is not even close from what I can gleen.

I am thinking o fusing a bit of artistic licence and using the camo scheme with the natural wooden deck... or maybe I will do this one in overall grey with natural wooden deck as the Rodney was when it tangled with the Bismarck and build another Rodney later on with the camo and camoed deck.. two 1/200 Rodneys won't take up much room..



Warren, I am a little enviuos that you can display not 1 but two 1/200 ships!

Now, Onto Camo:

1. Never trust Trumpy painting guides (but you knew that already)
2. Yes, May 1941 is a good time period to model her at. AP507B for vertical surfaces, Deck grey for the horizontal. Simples. Colourcoats have an excellent paint chart guide and colours used and also provide info on the camo colours used on Rodney in 1942 but unfortunately no diagram.
3. You might just have to "wing it" when it comes to doing the camo scheme as there doesn't seem to be too much reliable info around. I will have a look tonight for you in my Refs, RA Burt's battleships and DK Browne's Nelson to Vanguard but I don't hold out much hope.
warreni
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 12:19 PM UTC
Does anyone have pictures of both sides of the Rodney in her camo scheme? I have received the colours I need now I need a poroper diagram as the Trumpeter one is not even close from what I can gleen.

I am thinking o fusing a bit of artistic licence and using the camo scheme with the natural wooden deck... or maybe I will do this one in overall grey with natural wooden deck as the Rodney was when it tangled with the Bismarck and build another Rodney later on with the camo and camoed deck.. two 1/200 Rodneys won't take up much room..
warreni
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 08:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice progress Warren,

The magazines look really good.

Cheers

Si




Thanks Simon.
warreni
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 08:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Warren,

Welcome back, you definitely know how to make a grand entrance with your return.

Amazing work, love the level of detailed descriptions your giving with each step of the build. I strive to reach that level of detail and explanation with my build logs.

Amazing work.

Looking forward to seeing more

Dave



Thanks Dave and welcome aboard.
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 07:07 AM UTC
Nice progress Warren,

The magazines look really good.

Cheers

Si
rolltide31
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Posted: Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 04:20 AM UTC
Warren,

Welcome back, you definitely know how to make a grand entrance with your return.

Amazing work, love the level of detailed descriptions your giving with each step of the build. I strive to reach that level of detail and explanation with my build logs.

Amazing work.

Looking forward to seeing more

Dave
warreni
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Posted: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 08:07 PM UTC
And here are the finished magazines..

warreni
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Posted: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 08:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice tutorial Warren.

Will keep this in mind when I start on one of the big beasties.

Cheers

Si




Thanks Simon

Just a very quick one. If you glue all your PE together but decide you are not happy with it but it is too delicate to crack apart, or there is too much glue there, never fear you can take them apart easily. No need to buy that debonding agent either! Just go to your local pharmacy/supermarket and but some nail polish remover. Not the woosy one with no acetone in it but the powerful stuff. Put some in a small container, preferably metal or glass as it may dissolve some types of plastic, then put your parts in it. Leave them 5 or 10 minutes and when you remove them you will have no trouble taking them apart without lots of damage.

I was not happy with my first lot of magazine assemblies so I gave them the acetone treatment last night..







And this one was damaged previously but I am going to fix it before I glue them together..



Cheers
Warren
RedDuster
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Posted: Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 08:41 AM UTC
Nice tutorial Warren.

Will keep this in mind when I start on one of the big beasties.

Cheers

Si

warreni
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Posted: Sunday, June 17, 2018 - 08:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Pom Poms: rinse, repeat, rinse, repeat

Looking good though Warren



Thanks Russell.

Slowly but surely getting there. Yesterday I got a bit done. 1st up was a little frame for the front of the guns which only needed a few easy bends..



After attaching it to the frame I added the cylinder to it. That's it on the right of the base. I also added the front shields..



Then I bent the main mount for the guns and placed it on the base..



Then this afternoon I decided to add the railings at the raer of the base. First they had to be curved then attached..





And I forgot another set of tools I use for PE. These items are used to curve parts by either just wrapping them around the various dowels or placing the part in the aluminium forming tool. Sometimes to get a good curve you need to anneal the PE. To anneal PE you heat it until it changes to a rainbow colour on the surface then let it cool down in the air. Don't whatever you do plunge the hot metal into water as it will just make it stiffer than it was beforehand..

Cheers
Warren
RussellE
#306
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Posted: Sunday, June 17, 2018 - 09:38 AM UTC
Pom Poms: rinse, repeat, rinse, repeat

Looking good though Warren
warreni
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Posted: Friday, June 15, 2018 - 08:08 AM UTC
Hi Keith. Nice to hear from you again.

I am in the slow and fiddly PE zone at the moment, hence the reduction in posts. I am still working on the six mini kits of these guns. I bent up the magazine baskets.



These are like cages that the ammunition magazines fit into. Then I wnt back to the body of the guns and knew I had to drill out holes for the brass barrels but the 0.5mm drill required was too fine for any of the collets I had for my Dremel-type machines. SO it was back to the pin-vices. Now in the olden days I would have just held the body and drilled away, but these barrels are so closely packed that having them anything but perfectly positioned would look rubbish. So I decided to use my mini vice to hold them in place.



As an aside, I remember when I joined the RAAF in 1981 one of the first things we did as budding techos was a hand skills course in which one of the things we did was to male our very own mini vices from scratch. I still have mine somewhere.
Next I attached the sides of the body assemblies..



Here is an overview of the bench at the moment with some of the various PE parts in their little tin containers.



I have started on another part of the base which involves some tricky folding that I will post photos of later.

Cheers
Warren
beefy66
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Posted: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 09:47 AM UTC
Great to see you back building again Warren
I will be lurking in the back ground keeping an eye on this

Keith
Fordboy
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Posted: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 06:53 AM UTC
Thanks Warren.

Cheers


Sean
warreni
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2018 - 07:50 PM UTC
Hello again.
As requested by Mr Ford I will give a brief description of how I use each of the tools in the picture above.
1. No.2 size knife – This is for cutting items off the frets and trimming small bits of brass left over from when they are removed.
2. The small and large PE bending jigs are very handy. The small one is called the bug and came from the small shop as did the larger one. These are not 100% necessary but just having The Bug can make bending parts much easier.
3. Razor blade – Came with the Bug and is used with the Bug for bending parts. Slide it under the part to be bent after clamping it in the bug and bending without distorting is pretty easy.
4. Needle file – used for cleaning up the parts after they are removed from the fret. Makes it simple to remove excess brass on attachment points etc.
5. Black Perspex – Gets used whenever I cut off pieces from frets. Makes sure you don’t damage your knife blade or surface you are cutting on. Available in larger sheets as well for bigger parts.
6. Blue Handled Pliers – These pliers have narrow jaws and I use them to bend stuff when there isn’t much room when putting second and third bends into parts. Also used when bending without the two jigs.
7. Tweezers – used with every build for either bending pieces or placing pieces.
If you are bending or cutting large PE parts or parts with large attachment points (eg GLS HMCS Snowberry PE sets you will want to use either metal cut off wheels or larger PE scissors to remove the parts. Sorry I forgot a photo of the scissors but will try and remember to take a picture of them tonight.
And here is the picture as promised..



And I got all 4 magazines finished this afternoon..



And as usual I didn't work out the best way to do it until about half way through making them.

That’s it for now.

Cheers
Warren
warreni
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Posted: Monday, June 11, 2018 - 07:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ahoy Warren

Great to see you back and with a great build.

Apologies for not commenting sooner.

Love some insight into how you tackle PE.

Cheers


Sean



Welcome Sean.

I will go through all the tools I use as I progress through the build. Give me a nudge if you have any questions during the build.
Remember there are no dumb questions, just dumb people who wan't ask them.

Cheers
Warren