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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Hosted by Todd Michalak
Build blog for Heller's HMS Victory
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 11:17 AM GMT+7
Thanks, Jan. I'm going to check what kind of price Photobucket wants, and do some comparison shopping.

Not much going on with the ship's construction. I found some "aged concrete" paint, and am trying to dry-brush the hammocks with it. Definitely a work in progress!
JJ1973
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Niedersachsen, Germany
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Posted: Friday, July 14, 2017 - 07:29 AM GMT+7
Hi Tim,

I'm using imageshack, they had a free offer that I used for some years and than decided to pay for their service, its about a 60/year if I'm not mistaken, but I think they still offer free service. Works fine for me.

(btw Uschi is correct spelling, Uschi van der Rosten he calls himself, German modeler, makes good stuff)

Cheers,
Jan
timmyp
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Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2017 - 02:11 PM GMT+7
Thanks, Grant. I'll take a look-see at their site.

On another note, (and this is addressed to all), are there any free websites out there where I can put my photos, so I can link from that site to here? Photobucket is telling me that I'm in violation of their ToS, inasmuch that they don't allow what they call "3rd party hosting" (if they don't allow it, why do they have links to explain the process??!!??). Anyway, anyone know of any websites that can free hosting? I see at the bottom of this entry page, there is an "upload photo(s)" link, but does that just copy the photo into the blog post? Or maybe I should just try a copy & paste to my posts? Any suggestions?
GrantGoodale
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 11:17 AM GMT+7
Their selection was always adequate for me. While you are there, check out their Uschi (sp?) rigging thread. Great stuff that behaves like EZ Line but in much finer sizes.
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, July 10, 2017 - 10:38 AM GMT+7
Thanks, Grant. I'm guessing their website is www.freetimehobbies.com? And how would you rate their selection?
GrantGoodale
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Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 12:47 PM GMT+7
Tim -

If you are going to use mail order, I have had very good dealing with Freetime Hobbies.

FWIW
timmyp
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Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 06:37 AM GMT+7
Calamities of calamities! My favorite hobby shop has gone out of business. Guess I'll be spending my money on Amazon for future supplies.

In other news, I see that Testor's makes a small airbrush system - the initial kit costs about 22 bucks. Maybe Michael's will have a 50% off coupon I can use.
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, July 03, 2017 - 02:14 PM GMT+7
Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive airbrush system? Today, I had the bright idea of spray painting the rest of the masts, instead of painting them by brush. It looks like Testor's doesn't make their Insignia Yellow paint in a spray can, so I might have to pony up the bucks and get some airbrush equipment. Otherwise, it'll be the 22nd century before I get this danged thing finished.
timmyp
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Posted: Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 03:23 PM GMT+7
(grousegrousegrousegrousePHOTOBUCKETgrousegrousegrouse)

Well, I was hoping to upload a photo of my latest mistakes, but Photobucket appears to be enjoying the holiday weekend.

My mistakes? Well, I glued the first set of deadeyes on the port side inside out, and I found that the ratline was not long enough to around the upper deadeye. So the ratline problem was an easy fix; I decided to keep deadeyes installed incorrectly, because the cement was in that stage of not yet hardened, but still "gluey" enough to keep the plastic soft, and I figured if I pulled the deadeyes out, I'd just have a bigger mess on my hands. Not that it matters, of the deadeyes I've installed, they all look like crap. One problem I'm finding on the lower ratlines is that the thickness of the thread doesn't fit neatly around the deadeye; it sometimes slips off the deadeye, and the ratline shroud actually gets caught in the roving of the deadeyes. So for the last couple of deadeyes, I'm cutting off the flange that goes around the upper deadeye, so that there is a wider surface for the ratline shroud to attach to. Getting the painting on the lower foremast done; paint, dry, sand smooth, repeat.

I'll post that pic as soon as I can. (And maybe even some more!)

Update 4 July: So here's the picture:


Update 13 Jul: So, the above pic is NOT of my ship, but Photobucket is wanting me to upgrade my account so that I am able to do third party hosting. I haven't seen what kind of offer they're making.
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 09:27 AM GMT+7
Anyone got the number for Idiots Anonymous? I just spilled a jar of black paint on white carpet...
timmyp
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Posted: Friday, June 09, 2017 - 04:34 AM GMT+7
What kind of oil? A long time ago, I used some 3-in-1 oil on the landing gear of an F4U Corsair, and managed to melt the plastic!
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Thursday, June 08, 2017 - 07:08 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Thanks, Tim. I don't know if I'd try any paint that is oil-based, as I've been using acrylic paints on the model.


Even better - any oils you use won't attack the acrylic base paints, so if you don't like it you can just remove the wash with turpentine and try again.

Although I've found a thin oil application to be an easy and effective way to show depth, highlighting with pencil can work too.
timmyp
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Posted: Thursday, June 08, 2017 - 05:12 AM GMT+7
Thanks, Tim. I don't know if I'd try any paint that is oil-based, as I've been using acrylic paints on the model.
timmyp
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Posted: Thursday, June 08, 2017 - 05:07 AM GMT+7

Hiya Jan,

Thanks for amplifying your post! AFter reading yours and Tim's responses, I remembered, too, reading about how someone took a very sharp pencil, and just used the pencil lead to highlight some deck planking details - maybe I'll go that route!

Thanks again!

Tim
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 - 01:20 PM GMT+7
By the way, here's how a raw umber artist's oil wash looks over an acrylic tan-painted deck on my Niña build:
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 - 01:14 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text


...I'm still considering using a black wash on the main deck, just to highlight the engraving. My fears, of course, is that I won't make the wash "thin" enough, or if I do, I won't make enough to cover the whole deck, and even if I get the formulation right, when the wash dries, it'll look like crap. Oh, woe is me!!!



Tim, for what it's worth, I agree with Jan - do the wash! Rather than black, though, I'd go with raw umber artist's oils. This dark brown color is less stark than black and will look more like wood. Also, artist's oils take a long time to dry, so you will have plenty of time to fiddle with the deck until you are happy with the look. Good luck with it!

JJ1973
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Posted: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 - 06:54 AM GMT+7
Hi Tim,

sorry if I put that wrong...


Quoted Text

Hi Jan,

Thanks very much for your comments. I really look forward to installing more and more of the rigging. (I also look forward to finishing this model some day!!)

So, your vote is "no", with regard to giving the deck a wash. Any particular reason why? The intent would be to try and highlight the engraving in the deck. However, I've also realized that, in real life, the deck would have been scrubbed with abrasives, and the deck color probably would have turned more of a gray-white color.

Giving the deck a wash is not yet a "done deal", so I'd like to hear more abut your thinking on that subject.

Of course, I'd like to hear anyone's opinion about the deck wash, so drop a line!

Thanks again,

Tim



What I was trying to say was not "don't do it", but rather, reading your considerations about what all could go wrong, taking in account how far you have progressed and how much work you put in this beautiful model and being uncertain, whether or not you might be able to deal with an undesired outcome of a certainly desired effect of a wash to the deck, I simply do not envy you about that decision you have to take. Just checking my post - should read envy not admire - sorry for that - early morning around 5:30 am before heading to office...I would not want to be in your place and having to decide...

So, yes, I think a wash to the wooden deck would be a pretty good thing, no, I am really not certain if I would dare to do it... Sorry for not being any more helpful than that...

Cheers,
Jan
timmyp
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Posted: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 - 04:00 AM GMT+7
Hi Jan,

Thanks very much for your comments. I really look forward to installing more and more of the rigging. (I also look forward to finishing this model some day!!)

So, your vote is "no", with regard to giving the deck a wash. Any particular reason why? The intent would be to try and highlight the engraving in the deck. However, I've also realized that, in real life, the deck would have been scrubbed with abrasives, and the deck color probably would have turned more of a gray-white color.

Giving the deck a wash is not yet a "done deal", so I'd like to hear more abut your thinking on that subject.

Of course, I'd like to hear anyone's opinion about the deck wash, so drop a line!

Thanks again,

Tim
JJ1973
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Niedersachsen, Germany
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Posted: Tuesday, June 06, 2017 - 04:14 PM GMT+7
Hi Tim,

I truly admire your patience with all those thread works, be it on dead eye or the the hammock nets or the rig in general - absolutely amazing, and steady and good progress!!

She's coming along very nicely!!

I do not admire you for your decision about whether or not to give the deck a wash, though...

Cheers,
Jan
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, June 05, 2017 - 02:53 AM GMT+7
Let's see...where was I?

Here's a couple of pictures of the thread I put on the bottom side of the hammock netting. In the picture, the netting on the left doesn't have the thread, and the netting on the right does have the thread:





Here's a pic of the netting before:


This is how the starboard upper deadeyes turned out. A sort-of problem I encountered, was that those deadeyes fit very tightly against each other, so it wasn't easy to get the shrouds to fit around the deadeye, and still maintain some kind of evenness in all three planes:



And here's a picture of the hack job done on the port upper deadeyes:



As I mentioned previously, here is my plan B for threading-up the deadeyes: it's essentially Heller's plan, to thread things up before installing them. In this case, every time the thread went through a hole on the deadeye, I put a drop of cement on it maintain the distance between the deadeyes. However, as you can see in the above pictures, once installed, the "height"of each deadeye wasn't always even. I'll try to do better on the rest of the deadeyes!!



And finally, I did my bravery test a few days ago, and cemented the mizzen mast in place.



Now that the mizzen mast is in place, I'm looking at the decks, and doing some touch-up painting on them, before I get a bunch of rigging in the way, and it becomes nearly impossible to get a paint brush down on the deck. I'm still considering using a black wash on the main deck, just to highlight the engraving. My fears, of course, is that I won't make the wash "thin" enough, or if I do, I won't make enough to cover the whole deck, and even if I get the formulation right, when the wash dries, it'll look like crap. Oh, woe is me!!!
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, May 22, 2017 - 07:59 PM GMT+7
Well, things have been progressing a little slower than I had hoped for. I think that's because I was just nervous/worried/overly concerned about screwing something up, and having to start over! But I finally finished installing the upper mizzen shrouds & deadeyes, so in the near future, I should be able to install the last part of the mast (I think it's part 467), finalize any touch-up painting, and get that baby glued in.

And speaking of deadeyes, my "Plan B" was to thread the deadeyes while they're still on the sprue, and then glue the bottom deadeye onto the mast top, and use the shroud to take the slack out of the deadeye. It was a semi-effective method, but probably loads easier than trying to use that floral wire to keep the distance correct. While the method is semi-effective, it doesn't look all that great once installed. Pictures will be forthcoming.

In some other stuff, I was looking at the netting that holds the hammocks. Heller's instructions say to add a thread along the top of the netting, but nothing along the bottom of the netting. (The netting that runs crosswise to the centerline of the hull has threads top & bottom). As I was looking at my model, it struck me that the netting looks "unfinished", so I've taken to adding a thread along the bottom of the netting, and then having it turn upright at each end of the netting.

timmyp
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Posted: Monday, May 01, 2017 - 11:35 AM GMT+7
Hell Jan!

Hope all is well in Niedersachsen!

Yes, my little mishap proved to be a valuable lesson. Fortunately, things have progressed, and now I'm fighting with getting the deadeyes on the upper mizzen shroud installed. Sometimes it takes up to 40 minutes to get the deadeyes in place (on the next set of deadeyes, I'm going with plan B, and I'll discuss that in a future post). But I've got 3 of the 4 deadeyes installed on the port side, they don't look too bad. I still need to install the final segment of the mizzen mast, and one or two rigging blocks, then will come my bravery test: cementing the mizzen mast in place, and installing the lower deadeyes! It would be amazing if I can all that done by the end of the month. At which time I can flog myself by adding all the blocks to the mizzen yardarms!!

Thanks for checking in!

Tim
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, May 01, 2017 - 11:29 AM GMT+7
Thanks for your thoughts on the subject, Grant. I'll inquire about those products next time I'm at my hobby shop, or at one of the big box stores. So far, in my experience, super glue usually sets very fast (faster than I want it to), and like you, I've had several containers of the stuff (usually in a small tube) get the nozzle plugged up due to dried glue. I think I'll stick with good ol' Testors glue, as I've been using it since I was a kid.

Thanks again for your answer!

Tim
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2017 - 06:46 AM GMT+7
Hi Tim!

Just catching up here, reading about your mishap about a month ago...great to see that you've recovered, I admire your patience with all this!! Your are doing an awesome job!! Looking at all those tiny bits there you are preparing, I don't envy you...

Cheers,
Jan
GrantGoodale
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Posted: Friday, April 28, 2017 - 12:50 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

So here's a question for everyone: I see mentions about people using "CA" glue. I thought this was an abbreviation for cyanoacrylate(?) glue, which, I believe, is the same thing as super glue. However, people talk about keeping their CA glue wet, or solvent, when it's not capped. So, is this CA the same stuff as super glue? And does it not dry as fast as regular super glue? And if it's not the usual kind of super glue sold in stores, what brand names/other names is this glue sold as?



Yes, CA glue and super glue are one and the same. You can get various thickness of glue at hobby stores and places like Home Depot. You can leave out the glue on something like Saran Wrap and it does not dry. It just gets thicker until it turns quite rubbery. I do that frequently. I would not think about leaving an uncapped bottle open. The glue end up plugging the nozzle (vice of experience). Also pick up some CA accelerator. I prefer a medium gel so you get a bit of working time. Once things are in place, hit it with the accelerator - instant set. A good idea is to get some debonder as well. That and a sharp blade can help unstick glued fingers. Also helps you correct screw-ups.

I have also come across some thin CA in a bottle with a brush applicator. I am really liking it for rigging lines on wooden ships.

HTH