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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Hosted by Todd Michalak
Build blog for Heller's HMS Victory
JJ1973
#345
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Niedersachsen, Germany
Joined: August 22, 2011
KitMaker: 1,250 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,247 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2017 - 04:49 PM UTC
Hi Tim,

your patience with all your rigging- and line-work all around the masts continues to amaze me!! I sure hope your new jig will be helpful!

So for the next two weeks you moved on hour towards us here in Europe...if we at least could synchronise this daylight savings time thing...

Cheers,
Jan
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Monday, March 13, 2017 - 04:39 AM UTC
Good afternoon Jan,

Thanks, as always, for your comments. It's not only some patience needed, but also a strong magnifying glass! Those instructions from Heller are just hard to read!

At least now, with our clocks set forward, we're only 4 hours behind GMT, and for some reason, it makes the math easier to do in my head!

Waiting here to get walloped with the big snow storm that is to come later today...
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 06:03 AM UTC
Still finishing those upper (or middle) shrouds & ratlines...seems that here and there, the nail polish didn't hold the ratline in place, so I'm re-doing selected lines again, one at a time. I think I did the last one last night, so it should be time, soon, to start putting some more elements of the mizzen mast together.

I was also reading Longridge's book, trying to get insight into how the the shrouds loop around the top deadeye (Roth's book indicates the port shrouds loop around the deadeye from the aft side to the forward side, with the starboard shrouds looping around from forward side to aft side. Or vice versa). He also mentioned that he left the attachment of the shrouds to the deadeyes as an event after placing the running rigging, as it would be easier to belay lines without having to go around the shrouds. Same idea with the stays. Seems to make sense, but knowing my luck, I'd manage to mess up the shrouds, and would have to spend twice as much time to fix things. Maybe I'll put the deadeyes in place, and loop the shrouds around them, but not finish them with glue, so I'll be able to move things around as/when required.

I've also come to the conclusion that I could use about 5 or 6 different workstations...one to store the model, a second to do painting, a third to cut & trim parts, a fourth to hold things that are glued & clamped, a fifth to hold the instructions (and re-write them!), and maybe the sixth to use as a general purpose desk! In the meantime, it's one desk, and one operation at a time...
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 12:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Are you switching to daylight saving time this weekend?
Here in Sweden we will set the clocks one hour forward on the 26th of March ...

Good decision about saving work and being a little wasteful with cheap thread
Maybe you can even use the cut-offs for some other part of the rigging ....
/ Robin



Hey Robin,

Yeah, I can probably use some of those cut-offs/cast-offs for something. Here's a pic of the current pile:



I'm surprised you haven't moved your clocks forward...isn't CET currently ahead of UTC by 2 hours now?
RobinNilsson
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 1,831 posts
Model Shipwrights: 39 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - 11:45 PM UTC
UTC is always UTC (or GMT) and never changes.
CET is one hour eastwards (i.e. ahead of) UTC during normal (winter time).
United Kingdom switches to BST (British Summer Time) on the 27th of March (night between the coming Saturday and Sunday).
At the same time most of the other European countries switch from CET (Central European Time, UTC/GMT + 1 hour) to CEST (Central European Summer Time, UTC + 2) so we stay at one hour ahead of Britain the whole year since we switch at the same date. This makes it a easier for all kinds of communication, physical or electronic) inside Europe.

In the winter we are one hour ahead of UTC/GMT and in the summer we are two hours ahead, switch on March 27th and October 30th
/ Robin
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 04:33 AM UTC
Outwitting myself, part...

So, hooda thunk that some cotton thread, soaked with dried liquid petrochemicals, would catch fire so easily? All I was trying to do, was to "sharpen up" the ends of the ratlines without causing further damage...until a section just lit up like a match. I should have stayed with plan A, which was to use a soldering iron to burn off the ends, but I decided to use a candle. What I really should have done was just a get new, sharp Xacto blade, and trim the edges.

So I tried to re-start the whole thing, but I found that I had cut the thread length about 4 inches too short for a new set of shrouds...so I'm gonna have my lunch, run the vacuum cleaner, and maybe try again. Otherwise, I'll let another week go by before I try anything again.

Aaaaarrrrrrgggggg!
TimReynaga
Staff MemberNews Writer
MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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California, United States
Joined: May 03, 2006
KitMaker: 938 posts
Model Shipwrights: 757 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 05:26 AM UTC
Oh nooooooo!

Tim, I feel your pain! I did the same thing on my Pinta build a while back...


I was so mad at myself I had to take a break from the build and do something else for the afternoon! You will come back and make it work, I'm sure.

Aside from this hiccup, your Victory is looking fantastic!
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 07:31 AM UTC
Thanks Tim! The stuff we do to ourselves...

Here's my photo of what I torched:



So I've already re-strung the shrouds and one side of ratlines...waiting for the glue to dry, and to see what the glue didn't secure the first time around.

In the meanwhile, to keep myself going, just for fun, I rigged up a line to go through a couple of the pulleys:



timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 07:38 AM UTC
I forgot to mention: last night, on the Smithsonian channel, there was a show about the Battle of Jutland. I missed the first bit of the show, but when I tuned in, it was showing a battleship or cruiser slowly rolling onto its side...and then, as soon as the stack got into the water, the exposed side of the hull just went "kablooey" when that cold water hit the boilers...lots of steam, smoke, and ship parts went flying.

Towards the end of the show, they talked about the politics/scandal/revising of recent history that Beatty instigated to make himself look good, and to have Jellicoe (Gellicoe?) look bad.
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 - 07:09 AM UTC
Well, I've re-strung those middle mizzen shrouds (H6, in Heller's terminology, and if my memory serves correctly!). So that puts me back to where I was about two or three weeks ago. And I can see I will have a similar problem as before: my bonding agent, for some reason, didn't adhere the ratline to the shroud, so I'll probably spending too much time fixing things there.

On a more positive note, I drilled out the holes on all the "p" blocks. I was doing that drilling with a pin vise, but after a while, my fingers would get all achey and crampy, and I said to myself, "there's got to be a faster way"...and there was! I was able to chuck the drill bit into a Dremel tool, and the drilling went faster. But I had already cut off a handful of the blocks from the sprue, so the difficulty there was keeping the drill bit perpendicular while a pair of tweezers held the block. So on about the last 60 or so blocks, I drilled out the holes while they were still on the sprue, thus eliminating my problem of perpendicularity of the drill holes.

Looking forward to getting those shrouds/ratlines finished, and continuing some assembly!
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 02, 2017 - 08:24 AM UTC
Oh boy, looky what the postman left on my doorstep!

timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 148 posts
Model Shipwrights: 147 posts
Posted: Monday, April 17, 2017 - 01:50 AM UTC
Shrouds H6, take 2

Well, I finally got the second set of shrouds for the mizzenmast completed. It seems, though, once I started to cut the excess ratlines away, a lot of them weren't sticking to the shrouds, so I had to do them over and over and over.

Here's a couple of pictures of how I trimmed the ratlines. My big fear/problem was, in trimming the line, the ratline would come in-done from the force of my blade, so I was using one set of tweezers to hold things in place, another tweezer to put tension on the thread, and then slice through with a knife blade. Of course, this had its own dangers, in that if I didn't put the first tweezer exactly on the joint, I ran the risk of slicing through the shroud. And of course, I kept everything away from open flames!





Here's a close-up with some of the excess thread cut away:



After I removed the shroud from the frame, the part of the shrouds that would ultimately go around the mast, was separating from each other, so I tied a couple of knots around the shrouds to keep them together.



In preparing to put the deadeyes on, I spent some time yesterday cutting and bending some floral wire, to keep the spacing between upper and lower deadeyes the same. I only did the deadeyes for the mizzenmast. I also found, especially for the upper set of deadeyes, that it's best to use a #62 drill bit to open up any holes that were malformed.

And lastly, a note about the parts count. The picture below is what 221 "p" blocks look like; that's all of the remaining "p" blocks. These blocks aren't quite ready to go, I still have to cut the groove on each side so the attachment thread has a good place to get seated.

So here's a rough estimate of parts I've used, or will be used:

cannons - 612 parts
anchors - 9 parts
glass on the stern galleries - 15 parts
cannon port lids - 82 parts
hammock hangers - 74 parts
buckets - 21 parts
bow parts - 18 parts
"p" blocks - 221 + 41 + about 50 installed = 312 parts

Total = 1143 parts so far, not counting hull, decks, and other stuff. And that's out of a total of 2107 parts (as per Heller).



So as usual, thanks for taking a look. I'm really excited about getting the deadeyes installed, but this is going to be a busy week at work, so I may not get back to this until later this week, or the weekend. Besides, I've got to finish assembling the mizzen mast, so there's still a few intermediary steps to be done.

Cheers!!